Let me share the details of our recent Cuenca road trip, where we explored the hidden gems of central Spain! While similar to a getaway in Madrid, this trip took place in December and turned out to be an amazing family adventure in this lesser-known corner of Spain.

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Cuenca Road Trip in Central Spain

Where is Cuenca

Cuenca is the capital city of the Cuenca Province, located in the Castile-La Mancha autonomous community in central Spain. It is an excellent stop on a road trip between Madrid and Valencia and could even serve as a day trip from Valencia or Madrid. However, I highly recommend planning a few days to explore not only the city itself but also the surrounding region, as Cuenca has much to offer in terms of natural beauty and historic sites.

How to get to Cuenca

To get to Cuenca from Madrid, there are several train options departing daily from Madrid’s Puerta de Atocha train station to Cuenca Fernando Zobel station. The fastest and most comfortable option is the high-speed AVE train, which takes just about 1 hour to reach Cuenca from Madrid. Train options from Valencia to Cuenca are similar, with both AVE and regional trains available. You can easily book train tickets through platforms like Trainline.

While public transportation is convenient, if you want to explore the region in depth, I suggest renting a car. This will give you the flexibility to follow this Cuenca road trip itinerary and discover some of the hidden gems in and around the city, such as the stunning Ciudad Encantada (Enchanted City) or the lesser-known hiking destination of Serranía de Cuenca Natural Park.

Visiting Cuenca in winter

While spring and autumn are my favorite seasons to explore central Spain, this time we visited Cuenca in winter. Although December was a bit cold for my liking (with temperatures averaging around 5°C/41°F), the advantage was that there were fewer tourists compared to cities like Madrid or Barcelona, so we were able to enjoy a peaceful trip.

One of the most typical Spanish habits is planning long weekend getaways over the holidays, or puentes, as we call them in Spanish. This year, thanks to December 6 (Spanish Constitution Day) and December 8 (the Feast of the Immaculate Conception), our whole family had a few days off to explore new lesser-known destinations in Spain.

Initially, I had planned to travel to the Pyrenees, but I couldn’t find any accommodation that matched our expectations at the last minute. So, I started researching other Spanish regions and discovered a countryside hotel, Hostal Rural Amador, in Cuenca. We thought it would be a great opportunity to visit the landmarks in Cuenca that we hadn’t been able to explore on a previous trip to the region.

3-Day Cuenca Itinerary in Central Spain

Cuenca Road Trip: Day 1

Our first stop was the city of Cuenca, a place I’ve visited on multiple occasions. You can check out the full itinerary in this post for more details. While Cuenca is famous for its Hanging Houses, one of the most iconic landmarks in Spain, its cathedral is equally breathtaking. 

The Cathedral of Cuenca

The Catedral de Santa María y San Julián de Cuenca, one of the most stunning cathedrals in Spain. It truly exceeded all my expectations. From the intricate architecture to the breathtaking ceilings, every detail was magnificent. We purchased the combined tickets, which gave us access to the cathedral, a walk all the way up to the tower, and a visit to its museum Museo Tesoro. The museum is home to an impressive collection of art, including two famous paintings by El Greco, which were an absolute highlight of our visit.

Climbing to the top of the tower offered panoramic views of the surrounding city, adding to the experience. The cathedral itself is a masterpiece of Gothic and Romanesque architecture, with its serene atmosphere and stunning artwork.You can find more details about the cathedral and the experience in this post.

After visiting the cathedral, we took a leisurely stroll through the charming city center of Cuenca, making our way towards the iconic Hanging Houses and the Puente de San Pablo (Bridge of San Pablo). The bridge offers some of the best panoramic views of the city, with stunning vistas of the cliffs and the historic old town, making it a must-see spot for any visitor.

Hostal Rural Amador

After spending a day exploring the charming city of Cuenca, we arrived at our countryside retreat, Hostal Rural Amador. The peaceful, rustic setting was the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. We enjoyed a lovely dinner at the hostal’s cozy bar, where we had the chance to try a traditional local dish: ajoarriero (it is made with shredded salt cod, combined with a flavorful mix of chopped tomatoes, garlic, onions, red and green peppers, and potatoes).

If you’re curious to learn more about authentic Spanish dishes like ajoarriero, be sure to check out the food blog I run with my husband, Viva Spanish Kitchen, where we share our culinary adventures and recipes from all over Spain.

Cuenca Road Trip: Day 2

Guadalajara

On the second day of our Cuenca road trip, we had planned to visit the Spanish Christmas Park in the charming town of Torrejón de Ardoz. (If you’re visiting Cuenca outside of winter, don’t worry – I’ve included other great alternatives for you below!)

It wasn’t the shortest drive for a day trip, as it took about two hours one way. However, since we had missed visiting this park during our Christmas trip to Madrid last year, we thought this was the perfect opportunity to immerse ourselves in the holiday spirit.

The Christmas Park in Torrejón de Ardoz opens at 12 p.m., and since we’re all early risers, we had plenty of time to make a stop in Guadalajara on the way. Cold winter mornings in central Spain are made for churros and hot chocolate, and Guadalajara has a popular spot for this delicious treat – Churrería Las Farolas de la Concordia. This cozy churrería is a local favorite, known for its freshly fried churros that pair perfectly with a thick, rich cup of hot chocolate.

After breakfast, we set off to explore one of the city’s most famous landmarks, the Palacio del Infantado. This stunning palace is regarded as one of the most unique architectural gems in Spain. Built in 1480 by architect Juan Guas and sculptor Egas Coeman at the request of Duke Iñigo Mendoza, the palace showcases a fascinating blend of Renaissance, Gothic, and Islamic influences, as both Christian and Muslim craftsmen worked on its construction. The rich mix of styles makes it an extraordinary piece of history. In fact, its uniqueness was so evident that it was chosen by two Spanish kings, Philip II and Philip V, to host their wedding celebrations.

The Palacio del Infantado exceeded my expectations in every way. Unlike many popular landmarks around Madrid, the entrance was free -normally, admission is waived from Tuesday to Sunday, which was a pleasant surprise. To make the visit even more enjoyable, the staff handed us activity books for our kids. Our girls had a wonderful time searching for specific objects and completing the fun tasks in the books, which added an interactive element to the experience.

The most remarkable feature of the palace is its stunning courtyard, the Patio de los Leones (Courtyard of the Lions). This courtyard is adorned with intricate sculptures of lions and griffins, inspired by Eastern Islamic art. The attention to detail in the courtyard is truly captivating, with each figure adding to the unique charm of this historical site.

Torrejon de Ardoz Christmas Park

Torrejón de Ardoz was one of the top destinations I was excited to visit during our Cuenca road trip, as exploring Christmas-themed places in December has always been a secret passion of mine. Unfortunately, I ended up feeling a bit disappointed this time around.

In comparison to charming Christmas markets in Northern Europe, the Christmas park in Torrejón de Ardoz felt far less inspiring and authentic. The attractions and activities were overpriced and, in my opinion, overrated. After living as an expat for over 15 years, it remains a mystery to me why Spain struggles to create the kind of Christmas market magic you find in other parts of Europe. Perhaps it’s because snow, the hallmark of a traditional “white Christmas,” is a rare sight in most of Spain – unless you head to the Pyrenees, Sierra Nevada, or Andorra – so that quintessential holiday vibe is hard to capture.

That being said, I’ll admit that my kids had an absolute blast at Torrejón de Ardoz. They were thrilled with the rollercoasters and rides, no matter how tucky or unimpressive they seemed to me. You can check out more photos from our visit to Torrejón de Ardoz in this post. Despite my mixed feelings, it was still a memorable day for the kids!

Alternatives to Torrejon de Ardoz

If you’re planning a road trip to Cuenca for the first time (or if you’re not traveling during December or January to visit the Christmas light displays in Torrejón de Ardoz), on the second day of your itinerary, you can explore the Enchanted City of Cuenca or the hidden gem of Alarcón. The Enchanted City is a natural park filled with fascinating rock formations sculpted by wind and water, while Alarcón is a charming medieval village with a rich history and a well-preserved castle.

For more travel inspiration, be sure to check out my posts about the Province of Cuenca, the must-see landmarks of Castile-La Mancha, and the best stops along the road from Madrid to Valencia. 

Cuenca Road Trip: Day 3

Hiking Ruta de las Caras

The Ruta de las Caras hiking trail has been on my Spain bucket list for a while, as it’s one of the most popular hikes in the country and makes for an easy day trip from Madrid. This unique route features 18 impressive sculptures of various sizes, ranging from 70 cm to 4 meters tall. Created by façade restorer Eulogio Reguillo and ceramicist Jorge Juan Maldonado in 1992, these sculptures are inspired by a diverse range of cultural elements, including Indian gods, Buddhas, Templar crosses, and Beethoven.

The trail itself is a relatively easy walk, spanning just 1.5 kilometers. However, if you’re up for a more challenging adventure, you can extend the hike into a 14-kilometer circular route by starting in the nearby town of Buendía.

Overall, I found the blend of nature and art on the Ruta de las Caras to be quite enjoyable. The landscape is beautiful, and the concept of an artistic hiking trail is both unique and captivating. However, it can get quite crowded, which slightly diminished the experience for me. While I appreciated the trail and the artwork, I’m not sure I’d rush to return.

La Cava Archaeological Site

On the way to Ruta de las Caras, we made an unexpectedly fascinating stop at La Cava archaeological site, one of the lesser-known landmarks in Cuenca. I had never heard of this place before, but it turned out to be a hidden gem for history enthusiasts exploring Spain.

La Cava was once a hilltop settlement dating back to the Bronze Age. Walking through these ancient ruins felt almost magical, especially with the breathtaking views of the surrounding Cuenca region. The sense of solitude added to the experience, as we were able to explore the site at our own.

After visiting La Cava, we continued our journey to the small village of Cañizares, where we enjoyed a delightful meal at El Badén Asador, a cozy restaurant known for its homemade, delicious food.

Hoz de Beteta / Serrania de Cuenca natural park

Our final stop of the day was the breathtaking natural setting of Hoz de Beteta, located within the stunning Serranía de Cuenca Natural Park. In all honesty, I almost regretted spending too much time at earlier stops like Torrejón de Ardoz and the Ruta de las Caras during our Cuenca road trip, as Serranía de Cuenca Natural Park was truly spectacular. I found myself wishing I had more time to explore its vast beauty. If you’d like a glimpse of the park’s landscapes, you can check out the official video from Castile-La Mancha Tourism, which gives a great overview of what this incredible area has to offer.

We only had the chance to hike the Sendero Botánico de la Hoz de Beteta, a relatively easy 2.6 km trail lined with wooden walkways and ancient linden trees. Despite visiting in December – far from the park’s lush green season – I thoroughly enjoyed the walk. The serenity of the trail, combined with its natural beauty, has earned it a place on my list of favorite hidden hikes in Spain. I now dream of returning to explore more trails, such as Sendero de las Librerías, and to visit Cascada del Molino de la Chorrera, a spectacular waterfall that’s a must-see in the area.

One particularly magical moment happened as we were leaving our hotel early in the morning – we saw two deer crossing the road. I believe this was thanks to the fact that Serranía de Cuenca has not yet been designated a Spanish National Park, meaning it doesn’t draw as many international visitors as other parks do. This allows for a more peaceful and intimate encounters with nature (like Valle de la Ripera, located in the Aragonese Pyrenees).

Is it worth planning a road trip to Cuenca?

Overall, I really enjoyed this road trip through Cuenca, as Central Spain is full of hidden gems and remains largely undiscovered by mass tourism. Even for someone like me, who has visited every region of Spain, there are always new locations to discover along the way.

For this particular trip, I was most excited to visit Torrejón de Ardoz and the Ruta de las Caras, but unfortunately, they didn’t quite live up to my initial expectations. That said, it still felt great to finally check them off my bucket list. On the other hand, I absolutely loved visiting the Cuenca Cathedral and the Infantado Palace. I’m already planning to return for another weekend trip to explore the stunning Serranía de Cuenca sometime soon!

You can check my IG highlight Cuenca for more details. For a longer itinerary, you can combine this trip with the Madrid to Valencia Road Trip, Weekend in Albarracin, or any other of these Madrid road trips.

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