Some beautiful places are meant for more than an esthetic pleasure, they have the power to recharge our souls. This is the story of my weekend in Formentera, one of the smallest and most magical Spanish islands.
A Weekend in Formentera
Some say that the best travel stories are born from places of deep feeling, destinations one either loves or hates.
After a certain amount of research, it is relatively easy to wrap up a handy travel guide, but that´s really not the whole point of a travel story. Destinations are aimed to make us live through certain experiences and awaken certain feelings inside us. A lot like I´ve already shared with you in my Huesca post, when “mountains called me” – we definitely choose landscapes depending on what our souls are seeking to experience right now.
However, the places we visit usually withhold more from us … more than a cautious eye can spot in a simple picture. The atmosphere you perceive from each landscape, the scents of the daily breeze, the colors of every new sunset on the road… All of this becomes part of your life and you carry it within forever even after you leave.
So what is Formentera about for me?
In the low season, it is one of those magical and isolated destinations, where one can simply recharge mind, body, and soul. To disconnect from the daily buzz and slow down a bit. To find a moment to marvel at the beautiful nature around you.
I am completely aware of the fact that in the summer months, Formentera offers quite a different experience to its visitors. During the peak season, it’s an island full of high-end rentals, trendy restaurants, and luxurious yachts. But in my case, it was honestly the lonesome walks with nature in great company, that made my weekend in Formentera so unique.
After two days of wanderings across Formentera I´ve returned home so recharged.
Even though it was too cold for swimming and most of the places were closed. I loved every second of my Formentera weekend.
Actually, it all started years ago with my trips to the Balearic islands of Mallorca and Ibiza on a Mediterranean cruise. It was back then, when I heard of Formentera for the first time. But for some reason, I already felt confident that I’d love it there.
However, as my expat years in Spain went by – the stars just did not align for me and Formentera.
This year was no exception. The prices were outrageous in summer. Later on, when I already felt like in September-October I ´d finally make it happen – I had 3 visits in a row from family and friends. So, waking up at the beginning of November, I literally decided I won’t postpone my Formentera weekend any longer. November winds and rains might not be the best company on the road (plus I knew that half of the places on the island would be closed), but Formentera is still a natural paradise all year round. Isn’t it a reason enough to go?
How to get to Formentera
The island of Formentera does not have an airport. The closest place you can fly in is Ibiza. However, all of the Balearic islands are interconnected by ferry all year round. So, depending on the plane ticket deals you find – you still can reach Formentera from each island of the Balearic Archipelago.
An alternative way to get to Formentera is by Balearia ferry from Denia/Alicante. In the summer months, you might find the ferry service from Valencia or Barcelona, as well.
Let me admit that I was particularly curious to test this itinerary. Denia is only a 2hr from Castellon, where I live. So, the advantage for me was to get rid of all the lost airport time due to the controls. Honestly, I enjoyed the ferry more.
However, we had to change our return tickets due to a sea storm (to make a stop in Ibiza, in order to catch a larger boat). So, I guess it´s the only drawback one might keep in mind with ferries to Formentera.
When to visit Formentera
As I’ve already confessed to you – my initial plan was to enjoy a weekend in Formentera somewhere near September-October. For me, it´s the favorite season to explore the Balearic Islands. The weather is still amazing for a beach getaway, but the summer crowds are already gone.
However, if you are particularly looking for the island buzz – consider visiting in summer. Formentera is still more exclusive than Ibiza or Mallorca, as the island is relatively small. Due to a limited number of holiday rentals you will need to book in advance, for sure. Last-minute holiday deals are almost non-existent in the case of Formentera. Keep in mind that in the peak season, Formentera is frequented by Hollywood celebrities and football stars, so the prices often do overshadow the trendy Ibiza.
Nevertheless, my trip took place in November. Yet I bet you can´t deny the magical appeal of Formentera´s nature on my shots. So, I still haven´t regretted my Formentera weekend for a second.
Weekend in Formentera: Things to see and do
On this trip it was just the two of us, me and my husband, looking for experiencing new Romantic places in Spain and enjoying Formentera´s unmatched nature.
Early Friday morning, we drove to Denia and visited a gorgeous Jardin D´Albarda, one of the most charming gardens in Spain. After lunch, we left our car in the port of Denia.
Taking the ferry was easy and fast: only in 2 hours we reached Formentera´s port La Savina. Here, we rented a car till Sunday and headed to our hotel (located in the port area as well).
1. Puerto de la Savina
Formentera´s port – Puerto de la Savina, is a nice tiny harbor, full of luxurious yachts and trendy bars in the peak season. In November. it was really quiet though. Most of the places were already closed till the next year. Nevertheless, the area still looked pretty, so we walked around a bit towards the local lighthouse Faro la Savina.
2. Sunset at Ses Illetes beach
While Ibiza´s Es Vedra is often called one of the most beautiful sunsets around the world, Ses Illetes beach in Formentera felt even more unique to me. Throughout the summer months, this beach is considered one of the top Spanish beaches and is often labeled as “the Spanish Caribbean”.
During my weekend in Formentera, it was a bit cold for swimming. However, Spain is an epic winter-sun destination. So, a few years ago I got to enjoy the summerly weather at the beach in Benicassim (and swim), as late as early November. But if beach season in September is almost granted, in October is around 70% of probability, and in November you´d better not count on taking a dip at all.
Nevertheless, we had a long walk at Ses Illetes beach to enjoy the sunset (which I would not switch for anything). In some places, the sea on both sides almost covered the beach. So, having such a beautiful ending to the day, with all the colors and water reflections, simply felt surreal.
3. Faro de la Mola
Saturday morning we headed to one of the most magical cliffs in Spain – Faro de la Mola. It’s the highest area of an island and you get the most stunning views of the Mediterranean. Inside the lighthouse, you will find a small exposition and a balcony with jaw-dropping views. Check it via my IG Reels and Tiktok.
4. Playa Es Calo – exploring the white-sand beaches of Formentera
Formentera is one of my favorite places in Spain for a reason. If you love the sea breeze, emerald-blue waters, and white sands – you’ll be spoilt for choices here. While it was too cold for swimming, we made a few stops to explore local beaches. There´s no Formentera weekend without having “your Caribbean moment”.
I really loved Playa Es Calo, where I was able to rock my bikini and enjoy my last sun rays of the year (for a short while though – as I´ve mentioned, it was already November).
Leaving you the list of the best Formentera beaches (you can also save it via this post on Instagram):
– Ses Illetes
– Calo D’en Trull
– Es Pas de n’Adolf
– Es Cavall d’en Borras
– Es Calo d’es Mort
– Platja de La Savina
– S’Estany des Peix
– Punta Pedrera
– Cala Saona
– Raco de S’alga
– Platja de Migjorn
– Es Ram
– Es Calo
– Ses Platgetes
– Costa de Tramuntana
– Cala en Baster
– Es Pujols
– Sa Roqueta
– Platja de Llevant
– Ses Canyes
4. San Francesc
While most of the restaurants in Formentera are closed in the low season, we really enjoyed an Italian lunch at El Giovale, in the small town of San Francesc. Afterwards, we tried to visit a local museum Museo de Etnographia de Formentera. Unfortunately, it was closed. You can only visit this museum in the mornings from Tuesday to Friday.
San Francesc has a local market on Tuesday and Saturday mornings. Although Formentara’s most popular hippie market is Mercat Hippie del Pilar de la Mola – this one only works in the summer season.
Also, near San Francesc, you´ll find one of the three ancient mills of Formentera. The other two are Sant Ferran and La Mola.
5. Torre de Sa Gavina – Formentera´s Watch Towers
Formentera still has five 18th-century watch towers. These were initially aimed to secure the defense of the island from the pirates of North Africa. During this weekend in Formentera, we had time to visit two of them – Sa Gavina and Des Garroveret, Pi Catala. But you´ll definitely love the others as well – Punta Prima, and S´Espalmor.
6. Cap de Barbaria
We ended our weekend in Formentera by visiting another lighthouse – Cap de Bavaria.
On a Sunday morning, our travel plan was slightly transformed. Initially, we were supposed to take a ferry Formentera-Denia, but due to the weather conditions, our boat was canceled. So, Balearia exchanged our tickets for another itinerary with a larger boat Formentera- Ibiza, and then Ibiza – Denia.
I guess, it is one of the drawbacks of a ferry vs. taking a plane. The weather conditions (especially in November) can be quite unpredictable. But honestly, Ibiza is my second favorite after Formentera. Therefore, I did not mind spending a few hours around Ibiza´s old town and buying some delicious ensaimadas to bring home.