Have you ever heard of Matarranya, a lesser-known region in Teruel, often called the “Spanish Tuscany”? Let me introduce you to this hidden gem of Spain, still off the tourist radar.
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Things to do in Matarranya
Traveling to Matarranya and Teruel
For the past few years, the Province of Teruel has been one of the Spanish regions that has stirred my wanderlust the most. It offers so many unique landmarks and medieval villages that, as a traveler, you can enjoy without the crowds.
Countless memories made on the road already connect my family to Teruel: exploring local Mudéjar architecture, strolling through the streets of Albarracín (one of the most beautiful small towns in Spain), discovering other hidden villages in the region, hearing the romantic legend of the Lovers of Teruel for the first time, visiting Dinópolis Park with the kids, and showing snow to my little ones for the first time in Valdelinares.
Yet, exploring Matarranya had been on my Spain bucket list for a while, and I’m so glad I finally managed to visit it.
The Spanish Toscana
Matarranya (also known as Matarraña) is often referred to as the ‘Spanish Tuscany’ in national media. This region is a perfect fit for my blog series Undiscovered Spain – it’s deeply local, truly authentic, and still relatively unknown to international travelers.
I’m not entirely sure I agree with the comparison to Tuscany, especially after my romantic getaway there. Both Matarranya and Tuscany feature tiny medieval towns, cobblestone streets, charming squares, towers, and bridges. However, the atmosphere between the two is very different, much like comparing Madrid and Barcelona: both are Spanish cities but have little else in common. Tuscany, a well-established destination on the tourist track, is known for its dreamy panoramas, endless fields, hilltop hamlets, Chianti wineries, and numerous Michelin-starred restaurants. In contrast, Matarranya has a kind of quiet, lonesome charm. Most visitors are Spanish, so you may very well be the only English speaker around.
While I didn’t visit Tuscany 20 years ago, I imagine it was as rural and off the beaten path then as Matarranya feels today. However, with tourism in Spain steadily increasing, I’m certain Matarranya won’t remain a hidden gem for long. In my opinion, what has kept Matarranya out of the public eye is its remote location. Unlike Tuscany, which has easy access to the Mediterranean coast, getting to Matarranya from major Spanish coastal cities takes time: it is at least a two-hour drive from Tarragona, Zaragoza, or Castellón.
Where is Matarranya
Matarranya is a lesser-known region in the northeastern part of Spain, located within the province of Teruel, which is part of the autonomous community of Aragón. It lies close to the borders of Catalonia to the east and Valencia to the south. It is known for its medieval villages, with Valderrobres and Calaceite being the most popular.
The best way to explore Matarranya is by car. The closest airports are Zaragoza, Reus, Tarragona, Teruel, and Castellón. You can combine your visit to Matarranya with my Castellon Road Trip, Morella, and Tarragona Road Trip.
Where to stay in Matarranya
The most unique hotel in Matarranya is Torre del Marqués Hotel Spa & Winery, while Hotel Villa de Cretas offers a great budget-friendly option. Additionally, you can find many excellent local rentals throughout the region, such as Casa Gabaldá and Consolación.
Weekend in Matarranya: Top places to visit
During a long weekend in Matarranya, my husband, kids, and I drove from Castellón, which took us only 1 hour and 30 minutes to reach the small town of Monroyo. Although Monroyo is not typically considered a must-see stop from a tourist’s perspective, our visit coincided with the local artisan fair, Feria de Alimentos y Artesanía de Monroyo, which usually takes place in early November. I couldn’t pass up the chance to shop for traditional Spanish delicacies from the surrounding villages.
Monroyo
The small town of Monroyo is beautifully situated on a hilltop, overlooking the Matarranya region. With only about 300 inhabitants, it boasts stunning medieval architecture. I particularly enjoyed the wide steps leading up to the City Hall (Ayuntamiento), which dates back to the 16th century.
Another iconic building from the same period is the local church, La Iglesia de la Asunción. In fact, wherever you travel in Spain, make sure to visit its cathedrals and monasteries. Since the time of the Catholic Monarchs, religious sites have always been prioritized, with no expense spared by the Crown to build and preserve them.
Near Monroyo, you’ll find two other charming villages in the Matarranya region: Peñarroya de Tastavins and Ráfales.
Beceite
What’s a trip without testing out one of Spain’s top hikes? This time, we tackled the popular Ruta Pasarelas del Parrizal in the small town of Beceite. You can catch the views on IG Reels and keep in mind that it is important to book an entrance for this hike a few days in advance.
After the hike, we made our way to another Spanish natural wonder in the region – Salto de La Portellada. It’s a popular picnic spot in the summer months and can get quite crowded. However, since we visited in November, we had the place all to ourselves, giving us the perfect opportunity to admire the unique rock formations in peace.
Valderrobres
On our second day in Matarranya, we started the morning by heading to one of the most beautiful villages in Teruel – Valderrobres. This small town is best known for its picturesque medieval bridge, dating back to the 14th century. Like medieval characters of centuries past, we crossed the bridge and entered the town through the Portal de San Roque, one of the six ancient city gates. From the central square, Plaza de España, I picked a random direction, and we spent quite a while wandering through the medieval quarter.
Valderrobres is often called one of the most beautiful medieval towns in Spain.
La Fresneda
In the afternoon, I had the chance to explore the charming local village of La Fresneda, located in the Matarranya region. The old town center was filled with beautiful details.
I especially enjoyed walking around the ruins of the castle and the local church, Iglesia Parroquial Santa María la Mayor. As you can see in my IG highlights, there was a narrow tunnel surrounding the church walls, which felt surreal.
A foodie highlight in La Fresneda was discovering a traditional local bakery called Horno de Pan Dilla Pastas Típicas. As you might expect, I couldn’t resist picking up some traditional pastries flavored with anise, orange, nuts and raisins, and meringue with almonds. Another delicious find was a cottage loaf, known as hogaza in Spanish. You can check it out in this post!
Cretas
The small town of Cretas is one of the hidden gems of the Matarranya region and was, without a doubt, my personal favorite from this trip. The town is steeped in history, with stunning gates from the ancient medieval walls that still stand today, including the impressive Portal Capilla de San Roque and Portal Capilla de San Antonio de Padua. These entrances are a glimpse into the town’s past, offering a beautiful contrast to its charming streets.
Another must-see is the Casa Turull, a baroque building dating back to the 17th century. Its historical significance and architectural beauty make it a must-stop in Cretas, adding to the town’s rich cultural heritage.
Food lovers will enjoy El Horno de Llerda, one of the oldest wood-fired ovens in Teruel. Here, visitors can also purchase delicious local pastries from the Matarranya region, known for their traditional flavors and quality.
Also, Cretas is located along the Via Verde Val de Zafrán, a popular Spanish cycling route. This scenic trail follows an abandoned and restored railway track, offering cyclists beautiful views of the surrounding landscape. I look forward to testing the route during my next visit to Matarranya.
Calaceite
The final stop on this trip to Matarranya was the charming town of Calaceite, a stunning example of medieval architecture in Spain.
Be sure to explore its picturesque landmarks, including the central Plaza de España, the impressive church Iglesia Parroquial de la Asunción, the quaint Plaza de los Artistas, and the historic Portalet de Maella. Each site offers a glimpse into the town’s rich cultural heritage and architectural beauty, making Calaceite a picture-perfect stop in the region.
More things to do in Matarranya
The favorite travel plan for all the adventure lovers in Matarranya is biking the Val del Zafán Greenway, following an old Spanish railway for 130 km. This scenic route winds through charming landscapes, mysterious tunnels, ancient viaducts, and historic rail stations, guiding travelers through several picturesque villages in the regions of Teruel and Tarragona. It’s an excellent choice for those who love the outdoors and enjoy active holidays.
For more hiking opportunities in the area, head to Parque Natural de la Tinença de Benifassà, a stunning natural park offering a variety of scenic trails. Some of the top hikes include Portell de l’Infern and Salt de Robert near the village of Fredes, known for their breathtaking views and impressive waterfalls. Another notable route is the Ruta a la Fageda del Retaule.
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We’ve only ever been to Barcelona and this place looks like another world! Thanks for sharing this, definitely adding it to my list!
Thanks for your informative guide on Matarranya. If I ever visit, I’d like to make a stop in Cretas as you suggested.
Definitely added to the list, I lived in Spain for 2 years but never visited here!
Hiking here sounds wonderful! Will need to visit this area of Spain.
I loved reading this because I was in the Matarranya area in November. We visited many of these incredible towns. We also did a multi-day bike trip on the Val del Zafán Greenway. I read some of your blog posts in planning the trip, so thank you.
Hi Karen! It’s so inspiring to hear from you – it makes me want to return to Matarranya ASAP. The Val del Zafán Greenway is on my bucket list, and I hope to experience it soon!